By way of wine. By way of a mean massage that untangles my tangled shoulder. By way of mussels and fries at the end of the bar, where the stools don’t quite tuck under the tabletop. By way of the satisfying clink of glasses. By way of an impossibly slow crawl through downtown traffic as the throngs arrive carrying sponsored tote bags. By way of Crianza, tasting just like Spain. By way of soft lighting, comforting hum.